“Iron your own god damn shirt!” is something we’ve all heard before, though usually seasoned with more expletives. Well, here is a quick how-to for when your sweet-talking has failed you and you are faced with the task of ‘ironing your own god damn shirt’.
What you will need:
- Iron with steam function
- Ironing board
- Shirt that needs ironing
The best time to iron your shirts are when they have come straight out of the wash, and are still slightly damp. Failing that, hang them in the bathroom when you are showering and let them absorb some moisture. Creases iron out easily when the fabric is still wet, so a spray bottle of water may also be useful in getting rid of the worst wrinkles.
First off, you will need to make sure your iron has plenty of water. The majority of shirts are made from 100% cotton, but you will want to look at the shirt’s label. As a rule of thumb, cottons and wools can handle quite a bit of heat, while polyesters and silks cannot. If the shirt is made from a blend, ie. Cotton/Polyester, you should use the lower heat setting.
Start with ironing the collar and the cuffs, these are the most important part to get right. If you’re wearing a jacket these are the most noticeable parts. To iron the collar, you want to pop it up and iron from the inside first. If any wrinkles appear, iron them to the bottom where they won’t be as noticeable. For the cuff, unbutton it and follow the same process as the collar.
When ironing the body of the shirt remember to use plenty of steam throughout the whole process, this prevents the fabric from burning and helps iron out tough wrinkles. Make use of the end of the ironing board for those hard-to-reach places, like the shoulders.
To speed up the ironing process, cover you ironing board with a sheet of aluminium foil before you put the iron board cover on. The foil will reflect the heat back onto the underside of the shirt, but it will also make your shirts burn faster, so make sure you don’t leave the iron on too long.
TLDR: Buy non-iron shirts.